Frequently Asked Questions

Quality hub-centric spacers, properly installed and torqued, are safe for their intended use. The key factors are: hub-centric design (the spacer centers on the hub, not the bolts), forged material (our spacers are forged 6061-T6 aluminum, the same alloy used in motorsport), and correct hardware (extended bolts/nuts with proper thread engagement — included with every PrecisionFit set). Problems associated with spacers almost always trace back to cheap lug-centric designs, cast materials, or improper installation. PrecisionFit spacers are intended for off-road and track use.

A hub-centric spacer has a machined center bore that fits exactly over your vehicle's hub lip, and a raised lip that your wheel then centers on. This means the wheel is located by the hub — the way your car was engineered — rather than hanging on the bolts. The result: no vibration, no stress on the studs, factory-tight feel. Lug-centric (universal) spacers rely on the bolts alone to center the wheel, which commonly causes highway-speed vibration and uneven load. Every PrecisionFit spacer is machined to your exact vehicle's center bore (e.g. CB72.56 for BMW F-chassis) — that's the "precision fit."

A 15mm spacer changes your wheel offset by 15mm, which marginally alters the load path through the bearing — similar to running wheels with a slightly more aggressive offset, something enthusiasts do routinely. At this size, measurable bearing wear impact is minimal on a healthy car. What matters more: keeping bolts torqued to spec and re-checking after the first 50–100 km. If your bearings are already worn, address that first — spacers don't cause the problem, but they won't hide it either.

It depends on your goal and your clearance. 10–12mm is a subtle change, often used just to clear big brake kits or slightly improve stance. 15mm is the sweet spot for most vehicles — a visibly more flush, planted look and a wider track without rubbing on most stock-fender setups. 20mm+ is aggressive and usually needs fender clearance checks (or rolled fenders) and often longer wheel studs. We focus on 15mm because it delivers the biggest visual/handling gain that still fits most factory setups. Measure your current wheel-to-fender gap before ordering if you're unsure.

Two numbers matter: your bolt pattern (e.g. 5x120, 5x114.3) and your center bore (e.g. CB72.56). Every PrecisionFit product title lists both, plus the chassis codes and models it fits — so if you drive a BMW F30, the "BMW F-Chassis 5x120 CB72.56 F30 F32 F10 F80" spacer is your match. Shop by your brand in the menu, and if your model isn't listed or you're unsure, contact us with your year/make/model — we'll confirm fitment before you order.

No — spacers don't change your alignment. Alignment angles (toe, camber, caster) are set by your suspension geometry, and spacers don't touch any of it. They move the wheel outward along its axis, which slightly widens your track width, but the alignment settings themselves are unchanged. You'd only need an alignment if you were already due for one. This is one of the reasons spacers are such a popular first mod: big visual change, zero alignment cost.

Every PrecisionFit order includes the spacers plus the required extended bolts or nuts for your application — you don't need to source hardware separately. Spacers are sold as a pair (2) by default, with set-of-4 options available on product pages.

If you can change a wheel, you can install spacers. You'll need a jack, jack stands, a socket set, and — importantly — a torque wrench. The process: remove wheel, clean the hub face, fit the spacer over the hub, mount the wheel with the supplied extended hardware, and torque to your vehicle's spec in a star pattern. Re-torque after the first 50–100 km — this step matters. If you're not comfortable, any shop can do it in under an hour. Always follow your vehicle manufacturer's torque specifications.

Yes. After any wheel installation — spacers or not — hardware should be re-torqued after the first 50–100 km of driving. Seating surfaces settle microscopically, and a quick re-torque confirms everything is at spec. After that, check them whenever you rotate tires. It takes five minutes and is the single most important habit for wheel hardware.

We ship from Canada to Canada, the USA, the UK, Australia, and New Zealand. Shipping is free Canada-wide. For US customers, duties are prepaid at checkout — no surprise fees at the door. International rates are calculated at checkout. See our Shipping Policy for delivery estimates by country.

Contact us before ordering if you're unsure — we'll verify fitment against your year/make/model so it's right the first time. If something's wrong with your order, reach out through our Contact page and we'll make it right per our Refund Policy. Fitment questions are literally what we're here for.